• Features
  • Diwali in Dubai

    It always comes as a surprise to visitors to Dubai that Indians actually make up the majority of the emirate’s expats. As such, celebrations like Diwali are celebrated with gusto. Diwali (or Deepavali) is the ‘Festival of Lights’, an ancient Hindu celebration that I’ve been told is “as big as Christmas.” I’m down with that. […]

  • Europe
  • The Museum of Innocence, Istanbul

    “It was the happiest moment of my life, though I didn’t know it yet.” So we’re are greeted as we step across the threshold of this nondescript, maroon 19th century house on a quiet street corner in Çukurcuma, Beyoğlu. Directly opposite this affirmation printed on the wall is a collection of mounted cigarette butts – 4,213 to be […]

  • Features
  • Salalah, Oman’s secret paradise

    Palm trees on sandy beaches, coastal roads lined with stalls selling coconuts and papaya, hectare after hectare of banana plantation, and a very Arabian village seemingly stuck a few decades back in time… On first appearances, Salalah does appear to be undergoing a major identity crisis. Centuries ago, this beachside town hugging the southern coast of Oman […]

  • Asia & Oceania
  • A Man Mo moment

    Tucked away in the boho Sheung Wan district of Hongkers, shadowed by neighbouring office blocks and residential towers adorned with drying clothes that hang over balconies like bunting, is Man Mo Temple. One of the oldest temples in the city, Man Mo is named for the god of literature (Man), and the god of war […]

  • Features
  • Weekend camel races in Biyata

    Friday, 1.30pm. Dubai’s malls are teeming with afternoon shoppers. The beaches are packed. Sheikh Zayed Road rumbles with afternoon traffic after a morning of peace. We’re about an hour away, heading towards the emirate of Umm al-Quwain for a camping weekend. Traffic jams and glittering buildings have long been left behind. We’re ambling along roads lined […]